In case anyone is thinking of making some vintage style French Knickers, I’ve taken a photo of the pattern in my book, Complete Dressmaking In Pictures. I’m not sure when it was published, but from the photos I’d guess mid to late 1940’s.
The pattern assumes that you have made a block and are developing the pattern from that, but as we’re just doing a knicker, you can use an a-line skirt pattern. The important part is actually the gusset and the distance of the split from the hip level, which is usually about 22cm below the waist. In this case 11 1/2″ (29cm) on the front and 12″ (30cm) on the back. The split is 6″ (15cm) long. This makes a knicker a modern woman may find baggy, and if you were replacing briefs with it, possibly so. However, as a modesty garment for flippy skirts in summer, you don’t want it too close.
I have drafted a size medium with a slightly closer fit, and I’ll have that one on Sunday as well, and I’d be more than happy to show everyone how to sew a gusset into a split, and for those who like living close to the edge, a lined gusset into a split also.
See you Sunday!